At Gearhart, an old school, lovely links course awaits

As I rounded the final bend of the road to Gearhart Golf Links — presto! – “Ireland” appeared. A blast of cool and quirky golf holes through the dunes. A historic hotel with courses. The flagpoles are bent and buffeted by the bitter westerly wind that blows in from the sea. I had never set foot in this place and Gearhart had me under his spell.

Contrary to popular belief, Bandon Dunes does not own the original golf links on the Oregon coast. (Though there are five 18-hole courses, it may be your king.) While the ancient Gearhart — an attractive little links course located about six hours north of Bandon near Astoria — may not reach “royalty” status, rest assured it doesn’t aspire to. That’s not in its DNA. What? Grassroots, old school, unadorned and absolutely lovely golf links that will make an impression before you even step into the parking lot.

But first this disclaimer: Gearhart is NOT the few things you might expect. For example, Gearhart isn’t the big, hulking beast like Old Macdonald (arguably the toughest track in Bandon) or Chambers Bay (site of the 2015 US Open in neighboring Washington). Gearhart is relatively fair – just 6,551 yards from the tips – and loaded with short and sweet par-4s where your wedge game will work overtime.

In addition, the course is solid, set in a well-organized 100-hectare area. The nearest roads are nearby. The greens are small and that large scale that characterizes many famous links is not a characteristic of Gearhart. But the sportiness, the incredible mobility and the “possibility” of the average weekend warrior are trademarks. In a statement a few years ago, golf legend Peter Jacobson, who is closely associated with the region and the course, said, “You can have the best round of the year at Gearhart.” And this is not a stretch. Birds can be numerous. But, make no mistake, Gearhart is no pushover.

And it’s not hard links to the sea with amazing views of the sea every time. The Pacific Ocean, although far from the route, cannot be seen from the area.

“If we were on the water, our green fees would be north of $250,” said Jason Bangild, GM/director of golf at Gearhart. “But we’re in that sweet spot at $100. ($150 in the summer.) We’re links courses for everybody.”

And, not surprisingly, given the fun and trendy vibe of the place, everyone, including golfers, seems to want to hang out at Gearhart. The welcoming Sand Bar – a mid-rise building neatly nestled in the dunes near the 9th floor – is clearly a happening place. Live music, putting competitions on the course and great food and drinks are a winning formula there. Weekends, especially, are crowded.

At the Gearhart Hotel (34 rooms), leased by an outside firm, McMenamins, the “Irish” atmosphere has a magnetic pull. Snuggle down by the fireplace and sip a Guinness in the quaint and diminutive Pot Bunker Bar and you might think you’re far away in County Mayo. Funnily enough though, Gearhart’s sister course is the Carne Golf Links spectacle in that wild and remote region of the west of Ireland. Members of both courses have playing privileges in either. (Membership at Gearhart is currently full and there is a short waiting list. Visiting and visiting hours are readily available.)

Similar to Carne, Gearhart also has a rich history. In fact, it is the oldest continuously operating golf course west of the Mississippi River. They’ve been playing golf at Gearhart since 1892 – that’s 144 consecutive years.

Originally a three-hole course for guests of the old hotel, Gearhart was expanded to nine holes in 1901 and to an 18-hole facility in 1913. Then, in the early 1930s, local professional golfer and architect Chandler Egan redesigned the golf course. For decades Gearhart was a beautiful park experiment with narrow, tree-lined streets and a much different character than it is today. (Gearhart is owned by Tim Boyle, CEO of Columbia Sportswear.)

“In 2013, Gearhart changed completely,” said Bangild, who has been at the club for 13 years. “The trees were dying and nearing the end of their life cycle. Our ownership team decided that the best plan going forward was to remove most of the trees and re-establish Gearhart as true, open links. In other words, return Gearhart to its roots and restore it to its true, natural character. It was a game changer for us.”

As you might expect, uncontrollable ramblings, inconsequential lies, bad spirits and bad spirits are Gearhart’s greatest defenses.

“Even on a calm day, you don’t want to look down on this place,” said Bangild. “The 18th hole plays uphill and into the wind. It’s 640 yards from the fairway. There are days when strong, handicap players can’t get there in three shots. It’s actually one of the hardest holes I’ve ever played.”

Because of the difficulty of that meaty closing hole, Gearhart has a long-standing tradition of “Feed the Pig”. Basically, when you put a dollar in a metal piggy bank at a pro shop you entered a sweepstakes.

“Long story short, if you birdie the 18th you win the pot,” Bangild said. “It’s on the honor show. You play the girls you usually play. Every week, though, someone takes home the bacon.”

While it’s highly recommended to save a trio of good swings to finish, there are some holes that require more power and precision. For example, the 428-yard 12th, which dips down a hill before rising to a small, undulating green, guarded by a bunker, requires two high-quality shots. And the 371-yard 14th, linked by a natural half pipe, is perhaps, the coolest and strangest test on the course, with a small green, raised and difficult to hold.

However, at the end of the round, given the number of “available” holes in Gearhart, you’ll probably wind up with a number you’ll be very happy with. I’d say that’s worth something. And, for that matter, so does playing the best “Irish” courses in America.

Andrew Penner is a freelance writer and photographer based in Calgary, Alberta. You can follow him on Instagram at @andrewpennerphotography.